Even some of Hong Kong’s most beautiful and remote beaches suffer from hazardous waste. Last year I spotted two syringes on the beach while hiking along the coastline to Tai Long Wan in Sai Kung. Just last weekend I happened upon another nasty object.

I’m not sure if this is the result of illegal dumping of medical waste offshore, or from something else, but either way, it’s enough to scare me. If you see one, there must be many more.

It’s sad to think of such remote spots, unspoiled by buildings, still being tainted by the detritus of the city.

To be specific, the beach was Sai Wan, which is on the way to Tai Long Wan from Sai Kung.

Please exercise caution!

To see more images of the beach (without scary objects,) and get directions, go here.

Arriving this summer is Turbo Feel, a 350-meter indoor racetrack inspired by actual Formula One racing. The scaled model outside the nearly finished course is very impressive.

This is no abandoned parking lot with a few dented cones. We’re talking about a premium track complete with pit-stops, a spectator stand, and even an awards podium!

Visiting a friend out in Tai Po, I had the opportunity to peer at the work in progress and snap a few photos. Turbo Feel is a private mini race car track for residents on the grounds of The Beverly Hills, a gated community that makes up for its far away location with well thought out and genuinely appealing amenities.

I have to say that the planners did a marvelous job of coming up with activities for the development. I don’t know of a comparable place anywhere in Hong Kong. In addition to the race course, some of the standouts include: an indoor skiing simulator; a huge covered adventure playground for kids (with pirate ship etc.;) banks of video games; swimming pools; a several-story-high water slide; a massive clubhouse with karaoke rooms, a cafe, and even a band room loaded with musical instruments (for when Guitar Hero or Rock Band just isn’t enough!) This is all in addition to standard features such as a health club. One further smart addition was an on-site pet hotel for when residents go away. The complex also uses those cool amusement park trolleys to shuttle residents from place to place.

Having unique amenities is a way for Hong Kong property developers to distinguish one mega-project from another. With The Beverly Hills it seems that they really outdid themselves!

I’ll be back to try out Turbo Feel once it opens. Hopefully it’s not just for kids!

There are few places in Hong Kong as remote or as beautiful as Tai Long Wan beach in Sai Kung. How remote are we talking? Depending on which phone company you have, your mobile phone might start roaming to China!

For city dwellers, the first thing that strikes you is the view. Rarely in Hong Kong can you survey such a wide swath of land without a building in sight. In fact, arriving at Tai Long Wan (also known as Big Wave Bay,) there are no signs of civilization at all.

Getting to Tai Long Wan is time consuming, but worth the effort

Even by the fastest method – private boat, it’s still around 45 minutes from Sai Kung pier. Rental boats normally won’t take you to Tai Long Wan because the greater distance means more gas, so the destination and price would need to be agreed upon beforehand.

Last Sunday I opted for a cheaper way of getting there – by hiking. (See the detailed instructions below on how to get there and back.)

The journey to the beach is rewarding in and of itself. Along the way you are treated to stunning scenery of the High Island Reservoir and later to several beaches leading up to Tai Long Wan (Sai Wan and Ham Tin Wan.)

The mostly downhill hike is manageable by beginning hikers in decent shape. At a casual rate it takes around an hour and a half to reach Tai Long Wan.

The scenic path takes you alongside mountains, descending downwards towards the beach.

I would advise you to bring all your own drinks and food, however, along the way there are a few small restaurants. (Treat these only as a backup since the places are open erratically.)

You can stop at one of the easier to reach beaches, but going the extra distance to Tai Long Wan is worth it. Tai Long Wan has certain characteristics that make it superior: a long, clean beach; potentially big waves for surfing or body boarding; clear water that you can wade in far away from shore; untouched mountains; and extras, like a herd of cows that seem to congregate on the far end of the beach.

Tips for getting there and back

I’ve only visited Tai Long Wan on a Sunday, when the transportation schedules are actually more frequent. Taking this hike on a week day will definitely limit your options.

There are various forms of public transportation you can use to get to the start of the hike. To get to Sai Kung you can take the bus, a combination of MTR and mini-bus, or taxi. It’s around $200 HKD by cab from Central to Sai Kung town, taking the more expensive, but faster, Eastern tunnel.

Once you arrive in Sai Kung town, the starting point of the trip is just in front of McDonald’s off of the main road, on Chan Man Street. Here you will see a sign post for the 29R, a special, larger-sized minibus, with a white and blue color scheme.

Take the 29R to the last stop – Sai Wan Pavilion, which is basically in the middle of nowhere! It’s a ride along a winding road that has a great view of the reservoir. The mini-bus costs $15 HKD and accepts Octopus cards. I’ve never taken a taxi to Sai Wan Pavilion, but apparently the fee is around $85 HKD. (Get a phone number from the taxi driver in case you want to take a taxi back if you plan to return via Sai Wan Pavilion.)

Remember that you are going to a hard to reach area and there are no roads. Only travel as far as you think you can go and return safely.

Following the trail to Tai Long Wan is easy. There aren’t many forks, and you just hug the coastline. When you get to the end of Ham Tin Wan beach you will see a restaurant and building at the very end. Go to the furthest point and you will see a short hill to climb to continue along the trail. (You’re very close at this point!)

Returning you have several options – go the same way you came via Sai Wan Pavilion (make sure there will be transportation to Sai Kung Town once you get there!); go over the hill to Chek Keng and pay for a speed boat ride to Wong Shek pier (this will save you from part of the hike at the end of the day); or hike over to Chek Keng and then continue onwards along the same path to Pak Tam Au where you can catch a taxi, bus or mini-bus to Sai Kung town.

When you’re on Tai Long Wan beach it’s a little bit tricky to depart. First you need to find the path that leads out to Chek Keng and Pak Tam Au. Start by walking away from the water, near where the beach ends and the plants begin to grow. Heading in the direction away from Sai Wan, towards the end of the beach, you will see a brown dumpster. In back of this dumpster is the start of a small foot path that leads into the village in back of (but invisible from,) the beach.

This time around it seems that new paths have been added. There was also a sign to Chek Keng, but I opted for the route I’ve tried before that definitely works!

At a place where it seems to fork off to the right, instead go straight, or bear to your left. This will take you into the village. At the start of the village you will encounter a sharp right turn. Just a few steps from here you will see a sign pointing to Pak Tam Au. Taking this right, you will soon be on a paved path leading up and over the hill.

Once you continue up the hill you will be below Sharp’s Peak. Continue along the paved trail and it will lead down to Chek Keng where you will see people in speed boats waiting to pick you up and drop you off at Wong Shek – for a fee!

I usually ignore the speedboats and hike the whole way to Pak Tam Au, but perhaps it’s worth taking the speedboat for a shortcut and a cheap thrill. (I don’t remember exactly how much they charge, but I believe it’s around $60 HKD for a one way ride.) This will probably shave around 30 minutes from your return trip.

Make sure you leave with plenty of time before night fall as it would be extremely difficult to find your way back in the dark and all public transportation may be finished for the day!

It’s a good idea to take some mosquito repellent if you plan on hiking back in either direction!

WARNING: Last Sunday I was shocked to find two hypodermic needles on the beaches prior to Tai Long Wan. This totally disgusted me. It means that a company hired to dispose of infectious hospital waste is instead putting it on a barge and dumping the garbage into the sea! Though Tai Long Wan beach was exceptionally clean, please use caution on all of the beaches!

I’ve written about Tai Long Wan beach before (quite eloquently, I might add!) For more photos, check out my previous posts here and here.

Say you’re looking for something to do besides hitting the usual nightspots. Or it’s a rainy day and you want to have some indoor fun. Bowling, that ancient sport not normally associated with Hong Kong, is a good option.

Though not very conspicuous, there are several major bowling alleys scattered around town. There’s even a well stocked pro shop hidden down a sleepy side street in Causeway Bay. Do you know which top Hong Kong singer / actor is also a famous bowler?

If you guessed Andy Lau, you are correct!

Many private clubs offer bowling including the Yacht Club in Causeway Bay, the Aberdeen Marina Club, the Ladies Recreation Club in Mid-Levels, and certain apartment complexes. The following are a few public-friendly places to bowl around the city.

My first time bowling in Hong Kong was at the South China Athletic Association. They have a whopping 60 lanes! The SCAA’s convenient location near Causeway Bay and Happy Valley makes it a good spot when you decide to go bowling on a whim. It’s slightly hidden on Caroline Hill Road, not a place where most people travel. Though there is a membership required to bowl, it’s only a nominal fee to join for a year. Have a look at the SCAA website for more information.

I’ve been told the place used to be a hot spot in Hong Kong in the 70′s and 80′s. Back then the bowling complex even had an adjacent room filled with video game machines! Judging by the amazing sticker collection on the old lockers, I’d have to agree that the place was special. In addition to a Charles Bronson sticker circa Death Wish, my friend also spotted a New York Cosmos sticker. Now that’s extraordinary beyond belief! (For those of you who don’t know, the New York Cosmos were an amazing soccer team put together with superstars from all over the world, including Pele (the greatest player ever,) during the 1970′s!)

A newer bowling facility, conveniently located at the Olympic stop on the Tung Chung MTR line is housed inside the Olympian City 2 shopping mall. I’ve heard that the place even offers Disco bowling. I’ll be there to inspect first hand soon!

Another large modern bowling alley is located in Kowloon Bay in the massive HITEC building. Called Hong Kong Bowling City, the sprawling complex occupies a one time rave party venue. The concert hall where the Bape Heads World Tour took place is just upstairs.

Near the UA cinema complex in Hung Hom is Thunder Bowl. I’ve walked by the place a few years ago, but never went down to inspect. It’s located in the Whampoa area of Hung Hom just across from the gigantic boat. (If you haven’t been there, it’s worth a look!)

There are several other bowling facilities in New Territories and parts of Kowloon. I haven’t been to these, but I’ll list the addresses for reference purposes. I’d suggest calling before heading to any of these to check their hours of operation. If you’re hardcore and are interested in owning your own ball, I’ve listed the address of the A-One Pro-shop as well.

SCAA Bowling Centre
88 Caroline Hill Road
(near Causeway Bay and Happy Valley)
Hong Kong
2890-8528
60 lanes
www.scaa.org.hk

Olympian City Super Fun Bowl
Shop 148, 1/F, Olympian City 2, 18
Hoi Ting Road West, Olympic
Kowloon (on the MTR line, take exit D3)
2273-4773
22 lanes
10:00-01:00 (Mon-Fri & Sun & Public Holidays)
10:00-02:00 (Sat)

Hong Kong Bowling City
Hall A, G/F, Emax,
Hong Kong International Trade & Exhibition Centre, (aka HITEC)
1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay, HK
2620-3010
48 lanes

Thunder Bowl
1st Basement Site 8, Whampoa Garden
Hung Hom, Kowloon
2122-9822
22 lanes

Belair Bowling Centre
Shop 4, Level 2, Phase 1
Belair Garden Shopping Arcade
52 Tai Chung Kiu Road, Shatin, N.T.
2649-9022
18 lanes

Dragon Bowling – Amoy
S154-160, 2/F, Phase 3, Amoy Plaza
77 Ngau Tau Kok Road
Kowloon, Hong Kong
2116-1536
18 Lanes

Dragon Bowling – Tuen Mun
Yan Oi Tong Community & Indoor Sports Centre
2/F, 18 Kai Man Path
Tuen Mun, N.T.
2452-2119
30 Lanes

Mei Foo Super Fun Bowl
1/F, 95C Broadway
Mei Foo Sun Chuen
Kowloon
2742-5911
24 Lanes

U.S. Dacos Bowling Centre
1/F, Tuen Wan Garden
15-23 Castle Peak Road
Tsuen wan, N.T.
2494-7383
32 Lanes

Bowling A-One Pro-shop
G/F No.20 Haven Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
www.bowlingaone.com

Just when you think you know everything, you discover something totally new. The Wong Nai Chung Reservoir Park is a place I’ve passed by a dozen times, but never actually visited. Due to its location on a steep hillside, just below the reclusive Parkview complex, I’ve never had an occasion to go there.

Last weekend, wanting to go for a walk after lunch I suggested it to my friends. I actually had no idea what to expect.

Parking up at the top of the hill, which is near the start of some hiking trails, we walked down towards the reservoir. From the outside it looks like the standard government structure.

At the front was a sign touting the virtues of the park: “Hot Dogs, Noodles, Ice Cream, Sandwiches, Soft Drinks, Fishballs.”

Is this a peak inside the mind of Homer Simpson, or does it reveal the cravings of a typical H.K. citizen?

As you pass through the open building it spills out onto a balcony overlooking the reservoir. The water is filled with large fish and turtles.

In fact, feeding the fish and turtles appears to be part of the attraction. While I was there I spied some kids throwing handfuls of crumbs into the water. The fish responded enthusiastically by surrounding their boat in a feeding frenzy.

Walking down from street level there’s a sign with rental rates for the boats on the second floor terrace.

The prices per hour are slightly higher on weekends and public holidays. Rates also differ depending on the number of seats in the craft you choose. They offer two-seat paddle boats, four-seat paddle boats and row boats for rent.

I was in the mood for walking, not rowing after my lunch, so I just strolled around the pathway of the reservoir and snapped some photos of the scene. The old stone wall of the reservoir dates from 1899, which makes it ancient by Hong Kong standards.

The sky was blue and the lush green mountains that surrounded the water made for a good photo opportunity.

Though the reservoir isn’t large, I’m sure it would be fun to cruise around in a paddle boat and perhaps forget for a moment that you’re a ten minute taxi ride from the middle of the city.

With the weather warming up, I recently revisited a classic Hong Kong nightspot, the rooftop of the Fringe Club. Located just above Lan Kwai Fong, at the intersection of Wyndham Street, Glenealy, and Lower Albert Road, the Fringe Club is a landmark institution in Hong Kong. It occupies one of the only remaining old stone buildings left in the city. With art shows and occasional live performances, the place has supplied fringe entertainment to H.K. for years.

One of the secrets of the Fringe Club is that it has a large outdoor rooftop that makes for a great break from the noisy bars in Lan Kwai Fong. On the rooftop, you’re away from the claustrophobic confines and elbow-jostling of the bars below. Around you is a cut-away view of Central that includes the Mid-Levels neighborhood off to one side. The unique positioning of the rooftop and its location within the heart of the city, make it a sort of urban oasis. The thatched-roof mini-bar and green “grass” carpeting add to this effect.

The rooftop includes around twelve no-frills round tables and chairs that are perfect for hanging out for a casual drink with friends.

The crowd is about an even mixture of locals and foreigners. Weekend nights can get crowded, so go early to grab a table if you’re planning to make it your main destination of the evening.

To get up to the rooftop, you enter from Lower Albert Road. (Hollywood Rd. turns into Wyndham St. which then fades into Lower Albert Road if you continue straight after the intersection.) To your left, look for the large open doorway with stairs going up.

You know you’ve walked too far down if you find yourself in front of the Fringe Club gallery windows, or the F.C.C.

After walking up the flight of stairs you’ll need to open a door on your right and climb another short staircase.

From here you open a door and you’re in a cafe / gallery space.

Walk towards the front, and you’ll find the main bar where you can order your drinks. From here you can exit outside to the rooftop. There are a few tables directly outside of the bar, but these lack the view and ambiance of the main rooftop which is accessible from a short staircase just to your right as you walk out.

The Fringe Club rooftop is perfect for one of those nights when you’re sick of your clubbing routine but want to meet up with a group and actually talk, rather than dance and party.

The Fringe Club address:
2 Lower Albert Road
(just above Lan Kwai Fong nightlife area, near Wyndham Street)
Central, Hong Kong

I’ve walked past the aviary in Hong Kong Park for years without ever poking my head inside. I thought I could see it just fine from the outside, plus with the periodic threat of avian-flu I’ve never been too excited to check out the birds up close. Last week while walking around with some friends I finally had the opportunity to explore the place. Even if you’re not a bird lover, the aviary has a certain kind of Jurassic Park cool!

Walking through a curtain of dangling plastic chains, the entrance has a maximum security vibe to it. This must be used to thwart any final attempts at freedom should a bird happen to fly into the holding area. As you emerge from the entranceway you are on a walkway built out of sturdy wooden planks high above the ground.

The smartly conceived aviary lets the visitors see eye to eye with the fine-feathered inhabitants.

With many of the birds at home in the top of the tree canopy, visitors have a rare chance to see them up close in a natural setting. The aviary is built as if it were descending into a valley.

There are several perfect perches, and many of the birds were up for putting on a show.

The wooden gangway zig-zags through the trees allowing multiple viewing angles. Far below are several small streams and water sources which provide a natural habitat for water fowl.

The colors of the birds ranged from camouflaged to vibrant standouts against the foliage.

As the walk proceeds downhill, it’s a relatively fast one-shot descent. The aviary is a perfect side-attraction while exploring the rest of the man-made wonders of Hong Kong Park. Plus it’s free.

On more than one occasion I’ve found myself heading off to one of Hong Kong’s outlying islands, but unable to find the correct ferry schedule online. I’ve also arrived at the pier only to find out that the timing is incorrect based on the official website (which may not have been updated.)

Last week while waiting for some (late!) friends, I decided to photograph all of the ferry schedules at the pier and put them up for reference. As I’ve mentioned before in previous posts, generally there are regular boats and fast boats. Sometimes the different boats are indicated by asterisks, or by color. Additionally, ferry times change depending on whether it’s a weekday, or Saturday / Sunday / public holiday. Typhoons also disrupt the schedules, but fortunately that’s a rare occurrence!

The following schedules apply only to the ferry piers in Central, just outside of the IFC2 shopping complex. Note that the Turbo Jet ferries to Macau and parts of Mainland China are not covered here. Those boats leave from the Macau Ferry Terminal in Shun Tak Centre, which is located on the harbor-front in Sheung Wan, about a quarter of a mile down the road to the West.

The ferries leave from different numbered piers. Pier 9 is closest to Central and pier 2 is closer to Sheung Wan. The frequency of each boat is shown on the schedule, along with departure times. A few, but not all of the boats have two classes of seating. The best way to pay for the ferry is by Octopus card, but there are also cashiers and clerks at the turnstiles.

The piers and their corresponding destinations are as follows. Click on the links below to see a full-sized version of the schedule.

Pier 2 Park Island

Park Island ferry schedule

Pier 3 Discovery Bay

Discovery Bay ferry schedule

Pier 4 Lamma Island (both Yung Shue Wan and So Kwu Wan)

Yung Shu Wan ferry schedule

So Kwu Wan ferry schedule

Pier 5 Cheung Chau

Cheung Chau ferry schedule

Pier 6 Peng Chau, and Mui Wo on Lantau Island, as well as a multi-stop inter-island ferry.

Peng Chau ferry schedule

Mui Wo (Lantau) ferry schedule

Pier 7 is Star Ferry service to Tsim Sha Tsui (the most widely used by commuters and tourists alike.) The ferry drops you off next to the Cultural Centre. Two berths both serve the same destination. The old Star Ferry pier located next to the General Post Office was demolished last year and that has since shortened the ferry ride to less than 9 minutes from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central.

Star Ferry to Tsim Sha Tsui schedule

Pier 8 is Star Ferry service to Hung Hom and Tsim Sha Tsui East

Hung Hom ferry schedule

Tsim Sha Tsui East ferry schedule

Pier 9 is the replacement for Queens Pier which was just bulldozed to make room for a new waterfront project. Pier 9 serves as a pick up point for private boat trips departing from Central.

Generally each pier has two berths, each going to a different destination. For example, Pier 4, which serves Lamma Island, has one boat departing to Yung Shue Wan, and another whose destination is So Kwu Wan. (The exception to this is Star Ferry service to Tsim Sha Tsui, which is the most popular ferry route and utilizes both berths for the same destination.)

Impatient after just missing a ferry, I once hiked from one side of Lamma Island to the other carrying a big bag of McDonald’s take-out, rather than wait around for the next boat. (My friend had a craving, and there’s no McDonald’s on Lamma!) I passed by a dozen people who chirped “Eee? McDonald’s?” when they spotted my bag!

The Evisu Bar (or Evisu Baru, as it says on the extensive drink menu,) is now officially open. The address is 2/F, 43 Lyndhurst Terrace. It’s located above Pacific Coffee in the office building at the top of Lyndhurst Terrace called The Workstation. To get to the bar, walk into the building and take the elevator up to the second floor.

Last week I stopped by for the grand opening. Though I was a little sick that night and stayed away from alcohol, the bar’s specialty drinks looked mighty tempting!

As predicted, the outdoor area was an immediate hit!

Last week I had a quick tour of the new Evisu Bar which is nearly complete. During my visit they were putting on the finishing touches since the soft-opening will be held later this week.

For those who don’t know, Evisu is a high-end denim brand and clothing company that helped pioneer the recent wave of premium jeans. Apart from their quality, Evisu is known for their details, such as the painted designs and intricate embroidery they apply to their clothing.

The location of the Evisu Bar is a slightly hidden spot on upper Lyndhurst Terrace in Central. To get there you need to take an elevator to the second floor of what looks like an ordinary office building. As the doors open you enter the Evisu space.

Stepping into the main room, the vibe is upscale, yet without the stuffiness of many of the private clubs that have been popping up around town. Though it’s branded as the Evisu bar, they stayed away from the obvious denim motif and instead opted for a modern decor by the same designer who created the interiors for China’s Louis Vuitton stores.

As you enter the main room there’s a bar on the left with banks of cushioned seating against the walls and small tables. A central d.j. booth completes the space. The medium size of the room ensures that the emphasis will be on quality, not quantity – which is exactly what the owners had in mind.

A doorway on the far wall leads to a good-sized outdoor patio. The patio should be a big hit as the weather has just started to cool down in Hong Kong. The view is a cityscape that includes a good angle of The Center, a seventy-three story building with a rainbow of multi-colored, changing lights.

According to the general manager, the bar will feature a menu stocked with unique, premium cocktails. Many of the drinks are special recipes that required them to import the ingredients themselves!

Look for the Evisu Bar to be a popular spot among Hong Kong’s hip professionals and the international crowd who have seen it all and prefer a sophisticated spot for quality drinks.